Every year, a special date arrives when the heartbeat of an Andalusian town is measured and intertwined with the rhythm of drums and tradition.
Holy Week in Baena (Córdoba, Spain) is not something you simply observe—it’s something you experience. It’s not a spectacle; it’s a profound feeling that captivates, shakes, and transforms. Visitors who step into this land during the Passion of 2025 won’t just witness a centuries-old tradition—they’ll become part of it. Because in Baena, Holy Week isn’t just heard; it’s felt. And once you feel it, it stays in your heart forever.
In the heart of Andalusia, where history intertwines with devotion, Baena emerges every spring as a stage where faith, passion, and tradition reach their peak during Holy Week. It’s not just a religious commemoration; it’s an emotion that resonates deeply, transcending the city’s boundaries and captivating those who let themselves be carried away by the thunder of drums and the solemnity of its processions.
The Sound of the Soul: The Drum of Baena
Nothing defines Holy Week in Baena better than the relentless sound of drums. A rhythm that not only sets the pace of the processions but seems to echo the heartbeat of a city devoted to its traditions. The drumbeat isn’t just musical accompaniment—it’s a language of its own, a code of emotions that transports locals and visitors alike to a realm where time stands still and passion turns into sound.
The turbas of Jews, divided into colinegros and coliblancos, are the soulful core of this celebration. With an unmistakable cadence, they march through the streets, accompanying the progress of the brotherhoods. Each procession is a living tableau where the color of the tails, the solemnity of the attire, and the thunderous rhythm of the drums create an image that lingers in the memory of those privileged enough to witness it.
The Protocol of the Jew: An Ancestral Tradition
Baena doesn’t just live its Holy Week through processions but also through the rigorous tradition of its protocol. Each year, the squads in charge of “drums and flags” take on an essential role: gathering the other squads, the Evangelists, and King Herod to begin the day. During the processional route, these squads drum before the images, marking the path of devotion with their rhythm.
The Jew of Baena isn’t just another character in the Holy Week representation. Their presence is key during the Lenten misereres, where the sound of the drum merges with prayers in honor of Our Father Jesus of Nazareth and the Virgin of the Rosary. Without their helmets but with the same solemnity, they accompany these liturgies, which serve as the prelude to the most significant days of the Passion.
Pivotal Moments: The Essence of Holy Week in Baena
Each day of Holy Week in Baena has its own pulse, its own moment of unparalleled emotion. Holy Wednesday marks the beginning of the participation of the two turbas of Jews in the processions, but it’s on Holy Thursday that the city fully immerses itself in the intensity of its devotion.
The early hours of Good Friday are the climax of the Passion. The movement of the brotherhoods seems to defy time, stretching it into a scene of reflection and solemnity. In the morning, the drums continue to resonate, accompanying the unfolding of a day where religious sentiment reaches its purest expression. In the morning, the Nazarene, and in the evening, the Dulce Nombre, traverse the streets, accompanied by a fervor that can be felt on every corner.
And then comes Easter Sunday, an explosion of light and joy that crowns a celebration where faith and tradition have marked every moment. The sound of the turba becomes omnipresent, a melody etched into the souls of those who have lived this unique experience.
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